Since the beginning of time the earth has replenished itself using the nutrients of previous generations to fuel the future. This age-old process of decomposition cycles nutrients through the food chain allowing life as we know it to exist. Giving this amazing process a small space in your yard will start you on the path to successful organic gardening.

Your compost pile is beneficial to you in a variety of ways. Composting can reduce your garbage going to the landfill by a staggering 30% while providing you with a fertilizer and mulch that will be the foundation of your organic garden. Composting also ensures a healthy microbial population in your garden, which can reduce some pest and disease problems. Increasing the organic matter in your yard will also help reduce erosion, build moisture and air in your soil and limit the amount of fertilizer running off your property and into your nearby creek.

So with a little effort you can cut your garbage collection costs, lower the amount you spend on fertilizer and lower your watering bill. Sounds good but how is it making your yard healthier and more beautiful?

When your compost is ready to use it will be pile of pure plant food with none of the problems associated with chemical fertilizers such as imbalance or overfeeding. Also, as you disperse this black gold around your yard you will be moving billions of microorganisms that helped turn your compost into fertilizer. When they are spread out over their new home in the yard these microorganisms will continue working for you by breaking down any other organic fertilizers you use. Compost also shows the inherent benefits locked within organic ingredients when compared to chemical fertilizers by providing things like Sugars Pop down, Proteins Pop Down, Amino acids Pop down and Biostimulants Pop down.

When positioning a compost bin the first thing people want to do is put it somewhere out of the way, but remember you are going to be taking material out of your house on a daily basis so don't make it a chore. The ideal location for your bin is somewhere that is well drained, is shaded for most of the day and is near a water source just in case your pile gets to dry. Most store-bought bins come with a screen for the bottom to keep rodents out. Remember, a screen is good but a solid barrier is bad because it won't allow bacteria and earthworms access to the pile!

The types of materials that you put into your compost and the amounts are very important, and once you get the hang of it, the process will become second nature! The important thing to remember is that there are two groups of material to put into compost bins. Green material is "fresh" material including most kitchen scraps, grass clippings and garden trimmings. These materials provide nitrogen, which is very important in the composting process. Brown material is important as a carbon source and can come from things like decomposed leaves, sticks and coir.

Once you know which items you can toss into the pile, how much of each group do you use? Most recommendations are around 50% green and 50% brown but personally I like a bit more brown material to ensure a smell-free pile which breaks down a little bit slower.

Many people think that a compost pile can be quite dirty and leave an unpleasant odour in your yard. In fact, neither of these points is accurate. Different compost bins are available on the market, which keep composting tidy and most have a very small footprint. Although these containers are made from plastic, they are generally made from post-consumer waste and will last for years. When using smaller compost bins I have found it to be a good idea to earmark space for 2- 3 bins so that you can have compost in various stages including the bin that you are dumping into, the bin that is settling, and the bin that you are currently using to feed your garden.

The smell associated with compost piles is reserved for those piles that are not following the basic recipe of 50% green material and 50% brown material. The most common problem for most small gardens is the lack of brown material.

Turning the pile refers to the process of adding extra oxygen. In large piles this could involve opening one side of your bin and working away with a shovel. In most urban gardens an aerating tool available at most garden centres makes the process easier and doesn't take much time at all. When using the tool just push it down into the pile and retract to build the levels of oxygen in your pile and speed up the decomposition process.

If your pile is doing well, it should be steaming!! It is important to remember that composting happens in stages. These stages are driven by different type of bacteria and these microorganisms work at different temperatures and produce even more heat while they are working. Getting a meat thermometer for your pile can give you some insight into what stage your pile is in. Remember the more oxygen in your pile, the faster you move through these stages.

Below 12°C (55°F) microbes in your pile will most likely be asleep, so during the winter — unless you insulate your pile — don't expect too much to be happening. When you move into the range between 12-21°C (55-70°F) the cool temperature bacteria, Psychrophiles, will kick into gear and will being using the carbon from your brown material, releasing heat, nutrients and amino acids.

As your pile moves into a range of 21-32°C (70-90°F), the Mesophiles jump in as a major catalyst consuming everything they touch as they heat the pile closer to 38°C or 100°F.

At 32-93°C (90-200°F) your pile is at its hottest point and this is thanks to the thermophiles which thrive in heat and whose efficient work destroys pathogens and breaks down most weed seeds. This high temperature also creates humic acid (pop down) from the organic material helping to make better nutrition for plants.

After a short stage of this extreme heat, your pile will gradually cool down and will soon be ready for use throughout the garden.

As your compost pile becomes activated with bacteria and other helpers you will notice the pile begin to shrink as the material breaks down. The temperature of the pile will also increase to as high as 90°C thanks to the bacteria we just talked about. The speed of decomposition in your pile is directly affected by the amount of brown materials used in your pile.

Brown materials do a good job of holding oxygen for all your little workers. If you don't add enough brown material you will have to go through the extra effort of turning your compost pile in order to provide the necessary oxygen for your aerobic bacteria. Once things get started, it is time to sit back and be patient.

Applying compost is one of the most environmentally friendly things you can do in your yard but to get the best mix you can, it is a good idea to add some extra ingredients into your pile. Things like Kelp Meal, Bone Meal and Green Sand are all great additions to the pile along with a wide variety of other organic ingredients.

By customizing the extra ingredients you add, you can accelerate the process and change the nutrient balance of your compost. Composting is the foundation for successful organic gardening but other organic fertilizers can be appropriate in the right situation at the right time of the year.

Garden weeds can be a scourge for even the most veteran of organic gardeners, and their seeds are notorious for popping out of freshly spread compost. Even the hottest pile can have problems breaking down weed seeds but there is so much green material in weeds and it is a shame to just put them out with your garbage. The answer can be quite simple, if you keep a container with water close to your compost pile you can "drown" or rot the seeds from the weeds before tossing them into your pile. This waste water can also be spread over the yard once the seeds have decomposed in a few weeks.

I like to spread compost early in the season and every year without fail tomatoes start popping up through my annuals. Tomato seeds are very tough and will not break down easily so when you spread your compost they tend to germinate and begin to grow. I usually throw in a couple specimens from my favorite varieties into the bin every year and when they "pop up" I just move them to a better location. If you really don't want to give them a new home, just take these drifters and throw them back into the pile.

After the aforementioned patience, it is time to investigate if your pile is decomposed and ready to use. An easy way to get an idea if it's done is that it should have shrunk in size by one-third. The pile will have cooled down by this stage but it should still be warm to the touch because of all those bacteria working so hard for you. Visually you should not be able to identify the original material and it should be a rich dark brown.

If you see earthworms and other insects you can be sure that your pile is ready to use. At this point, although not necessary, you can screen the compost to remove any material that has not broken down such as sticks and twigs and put these items into your next pile to help kick start the next batch. What is left after your patient wait is a rich mix of nutrients and organic material, now all you need to do is use it!

Now that you have your compost material, it is time to enjoy the fruits of your labour. Compost is a versatile garden amender but there are four broad uses to consider. Consider using compost as a soil amendment by digging in 2-4 inches a year into your new beds or your vegetable patch.

Used as a moisture holding mulch, compost can be applied in a layer up to 3 inches deep around shrubs and trees. Consider spreading a thin layer over your perennials in the spring before they start to push out.

To use on your lawn, scatter a couple of inches over the entire lawn and then rake it into the thatch to accelerate break down, increase moisture retention and build organic materials.

For special plants consider using a coarse coffee filter to hold a couple of cups of compost, run warm water through the filter to fill a 1-2 liter container. This water can then be given as a foliar spray to your favorite plants.

Remember that on top of these uses, compost can also be a great seed starter when spread in a thin layer in your seed starting trays. No matter how you use it your plants will reward you and your garden soil will continue to be more productive year after year.

The pile is too wet: If your materials are to soggy you will not have enough air. Turn your pile and mix in a carbon source or a "brown" material.

The pile is to dry: If your pile is too dry it won't contain enough bacteria to decompose your material. Moisten the pile but not to the point of runoff.. think about a wrung out sponge and that would be perfect. It's better to add a little water and wait to check for improvements.

The pile is moist but doesn't seem to be doing much: This is generally a sign of a pile lacking nitrogen. Consider adding an accelerator or add more green material.

The pile smells like rotten eggs: The pile is to wet and there is no oxygen. Turn the pile and add in good coarse brown material to absorb excess water and build oxygen levels.

The pile smells like ammonia: You've probably added to much nitrogen or "green" material; add in more carbon "brown" material.

Meet the author:

Simon Hart, the Organic Mechanic, spent the first 16 years of his life on a 30-acre mixed hobby farm with both livestock and greenhouses. This experience help set the foundation for a life dedicated to outdoor living and gardening organically. After high school, he attended the University of Northern British Columbia completing a Bachelor of Arts with minors in both First Nations Studies and Environmental studies.

After briefly working in the B.C. Parks system, Simon joined Greenstar Plant Products to pursue the use of organic amendments in residential and commercial settings. Simon has increased his knowledge by working with local farmers and has taken additional coursework to specialize in Organic Soil Management. He was recently certified as an Organic Master Gardener.

As the Organic Mechanic, Simon is working to demystify organic gardening for consumers and help build on the paradigm shift beginning in gardens around the world.